Cross-country Skiing in Valles Caldera National Preserve

The takeaway: Just a few hours from Durango, Valles Caldera is a great cross-country skiing destination, with surprisingly good snow and very few visitors.

Valles Caldera National Preserve is best known as a hiking destination during the warmer months, but winter transforms the preserve into a beautiful skiing landscape. The broad valley, surrounded by volcanic peaks and forested slopes, offers a variety of skiing that appeals to both classic XC skiers and those looking for an even wilder adventure.

The preserve sits at more than 8,000 feet, and winter temps can routinely drop below zero. Snow conditions vary considerably from year to year, so a successful ski day depends on checking current conditions, weather, and road access before you go.

• Location: Valles Caldera is in the Jemez Mountains of northern New Mexico. The Valle Grande and other open valleys are the main areas people ski.

• Season: Typically from mid‑December through mid‑March, though snow depth and road/vehicle access vary year to year.

• Access and roads: During winter, much of the preserve is snow‑covered and vehicle access is limited. Most tours begin from near the cozy visitor center.

• Groomed trails: When conditions permit, about 12 miles of groomed ski trails are maintained in the Valle Grande area. There are many unplowed roads and forested slopes where you can ski or break trail.

• Wildlife and solitude: Because the preserve is large, remote, and less trafficked in winter, you’ll often have the space and silence to yourself.

Gear Essentials
Bigger baskets help in deep or soft snow. Narrow “race” skis are good on groomed tracks but struggle off‑trail.

Dress in layers. Be ready for surprising cold in the early morning but comfortable warmth in the afternoon.

Bring classic or backcountry cross-country skis. These are great items to buy used from the Durango Outdoor Exchange.

Why It’s Worth the Trip

• Spectacular scenery: Snow‑clad meadows (the “valle grande”), volcanic caldera edges, forests, all in a relatively open space.

• Quiet and uncrowded: Unlike heavily groomed resort areas, Valles offers opportunities for peaceful solitude.

• Lots of varied terrain: From open valley skiing to forested slopes and ungroomed roads.

• Pair with additional adventures: There’s a lot to do in this area, from downhill skiing at Pajarito (now with expanded snowmaking!) to hot springs, pre-historic structures, virtually unknown national monuments, and New Mexican cuisine.

• Important to note: There is no food or accommodations available in the park, and there are no established campgrounds or standard backcountry camping permits. If camping on non-preserve lands nearby, be aware of how much colder it can be in the Jemez Mountains than in surrounding areas. Also note that if entering the preserve from Los Alamos, you will drive through a security post staffed by the Los Alamos National Laboratory.

Gear up at Durango Outdoor Exchange

• Consider bringing a pair of backcountry XC skis with metal edges and wider bases for the valley’s ungroomed terrain.

• Pack a heavier down jacket, an extra base layer in case your main one sweats through, and thick-extra socks.

• Bring lunch and a thermos.

Visit Durango Outdoor Exchange to learn more.